Archives
~ Bermuda July to December
2005 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Hello everyone and welcome to this posting to Life is a Beach! Instead of a pictorial of our life in Bermuda, this issue is devoted to our exploration of the incredible country of Belize! If you mouse over the map to your left, you'll see our route through this beautiful land. Located South of Mexico and sharing it's border with Guatemala, Belize is famous for it's Caribbean islands or "Cayes" (Pronounced "Keys") as well as it's Mayan ruins and diverse population. On the 15th of February we flew to Belize City and rented a car for the first week of our trip. We visited Mayan ruins and explored the countryside. Our last two weeks were spent on the Cayes where we traveled by water taxi from island to island. I hope you enjoy Lori's photography. As always, all the images can be seen full screen by "clicking" on them. For example you can click on the map to see where exactly Belize is located in Central America. Close the window to return here. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Click on Map to see larger version and more! |
Water taxi landing at the Mayan ruins of Cerros. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
For the first three says we stayed in Northern Belize in the Corozal province, staying in the small town of Consejo. The first day we drove (and took two hand pulled ferries) to the small fishing town of Sarteneja. There we visited the Mayan ruins at Cerros, which can also be reached by water (see picture above right). The next day we took a water taxi to Chetumal Mexico to do some shopping. (See map above) |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Although we had a great time staying at Bob and Martha's place in Consejo, it was time to move on and we headed for San Ignacio. The two images above are typical of Belizean housing. The one on the left is a bit rickety but most homes are built above the ground and are of wood. This was surprising as Belize weathers the occasional hurricane. The house on the right Lori liked because of the sign "Country Club". | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The main crop of the North is sugar cane and the large trucks full of fresh cane or crushed cane stalks are everywhere on the roads. Pictured at left is a line of these trucks waiting their turn to dump their load at the factory. The Mennonites also have a distinct influence in Northern Belize. They came to Belize in the 1950s from Canada and the U.S. via Mexico. They brought with them their European farming skills and are efficient and hard working so that they have come to dominate the agricultural sector in Belize and supply much of the country’s produce as well as prefab housing. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cane Trucks line up for delivery to the factory |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Belize Church on the side of the road |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Harpy EagleOn our fourth day we drove to San Ignacio (See the Map!) and on the way stopped off at the Belize Zoo. It was well worth the stop to view the Jaguars and especially the Harpy Eagle. The Harpy is the largest and most powerful raptor found in the Americas, usually inhabiting tropical lowland rainforests in the upper canopy layer. Its name references the harpies from Ancient Greek mythology. These were wind spirits that took the dead to Hades, and were said to have a body like an eagle and the face of a human. This species is an actively hunting carnivore. Its main prey are tree-dwelling mammals such as monkeys, coatis, and sloths; it may also attack other bird species such as macaws. The talons are extremely powerful and assist with suppressing prey. The Harpy Eagle is the national bird of Panama, although we never saw one there. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Harpy Eagle at the Belize Zoo |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
On our fifth day we ended up near San Ignacio which is located in the highlands near Guatemala at a jungle lodge called Jaguar Paw. At right and left you see us geared up for "Zip Lining" where one flies through the jungle canopy on a cable. The ride went quite a way with four resting stations. Of course Lori took her camera. At Jaguar Paw one can also go cave exploring where you float on an inner tube and follow the river going underground where ancient Mayan Priests held their rites. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Jaguar Paw was an amazing place literally in the middle of the jungle. When we arrived we found ourselves to be the only customers there that night. We had our pick of the rooms which all had a different theme. We chose the Voodoo Room! At right you see me taking in all the pictures and ornaments in our room. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Front entrance to Jaguar Paw |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
At left is a reflection of Lori in the bed of our Voodoo room, checking up on her email on our lap top. Belize had internet connectivity almost everywhere we went. At right is a "real" Voodoo doll that I found in an ornate box inside a cabinet in our room. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Hummingbird Highway (left) took us the next day back to the coast in Southern Belize. The roads were surprisingly good with very little traffic. After leaving the mountain jungles we entered orange groves of the lowlands. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Hummingbird Highway |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I told Lori we must stop and get a picture of the jungle before we left. So here it is ....not as impressive looking as in real life. To the right you see Lori and I at an inland "Blue Hole". Not often can we find someone who can actually focus her camera. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Jungles of the Cayo District |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Close to where the Hummingbird Highway becomes the Southern Highway we finally found our house! All it needs is a coat of paint!! Lori got out to take a picture and heard weird music coming from inside. She ran back to the car! | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
A full load of oranges headed for market. This is the main crop of Southern Belize. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
We took a side road off the main highway to take a look at Hopkins, a small fishing village on the coast. The pictures above have been made "artistic" by Lori in Photoshop. That is actually "me" on the dock with the birds. Mouse over the close-up image and you'll see the unaltered picture. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
So on our fifth day we stopped in Placencia village, and there we stayed for two days. A wonderfull place at the end of a long peninsula, full of colourful cottages on the beach. Lots of entertainment and restaurants serving great food. Also lots of subjects for Lori's camera. The few pictures you see here are only a fraction of the hundreds that she took. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Yours truly on the deck of a cottage |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Black bird on a chair set out for residents of Julia's Guest House, where we stayed in Placencia. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Flowers overgrow everything |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The bedroom (right) of our suite at Julia's was great. We were located on the top floor of an old building and had cool breezes blowing through the shutters (no need for windows) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Placencia bedroom |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
On the seventh day we had to leave lovely Placencia and head back to Belize City to return our rental car. On the way back we came across this snake in the middle of the road. It didn't like us stopping to take it's picture! Lori jumped out of the car to get a close up and I had to shout at her to keep back! It might be deadly? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Lets go to the Cayes! Our first destination is Caye Caulker, a favorite place for many visitors. Leaving Belize City (left) by water taxi, the ride took about 20 minutes. Upon arriving we were greeted by a golf cart taxi that took us to his recommended place; "The Tropical Paradise Hotel" seen in the image at right. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Tropical Paradise Hotel from their dock |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I might mention that, other than the first two nights in Consejo, we "winged it", not reserving any place until we arrived. Often when we walked in from the street we could bargain for a great rate and best room of the house. At the "Paradise" we again rented a room on the top floor with great views and cool breeze. Caye Caulker has three streets all of sand. The only vehicles are golf carts and peddle bikes. The main street is the beach. A truly perfect place to lay back! The islands of Belize all have long docks out to deeper water for the boats to dock as it's shallow closer to shore. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have a chair and relax .... where is my book? One Margarita please. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
An old unused dock |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Down town Caye Caulker |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Boats and kayaks for rent |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The local weather indicator at Tina's |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I told Lori that we should produce a "puzzle" out of her picture at left. This was taken on one of the avenues that connected the two main streets. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Traffic Jam in Caye Caulker |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
One of the main hangouts for the locals and tourists alike is the "Lazy Lizard". It is located at the end of the island at a place they call the "split", a waterway that split the island in two created by a past hurricane. It's a great place to sun and swim and meet people. It has it's own form of entertainment. At right is a local entertaining patrons of the Lizard by drawing in the large Frigate birds with herring. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Lazy Lizard! |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Entertainment! |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
A view of the Lazy Lizard Bar and beach and the "Split" |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The picture that says it all ... pure bliss! Warm water and a cold Belikan (the local beer of Belize) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
So what can I say about Caulker .... we were in paradise after all. A week of kicking back, enjoying the sun, snorkeling the reef, meeting new people and going to a different restaurant every evening. As you can imagine, by late afternoon each day, we were feeling no pain. Pictured at left is me at the Lazy Lizard wearing a hat of palm leaves and hoisting a glass of .... what? Herring? This drink is for the birds! Pictured at right is one of the many boats that came through the Spit. They often docked for a quick bite and a drink (or two). This vessel sailed right on through. If you click on it to enlarge, you'll see the line of serf in the distance which denotes the barrier reef. This reef is the second largest in the world next to the Great Barrier reef in Australia, and travels the length of Belize. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cheers! |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Some more magic from Lori's camera. A close up of a local swimmer (left). Notice the clarity of the warm water. The lizard pictured is a rather small one compared to the others we saw but Lori liked the colours in the image. They get huge in Belize and can they ever move! |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ok, ok .... so it's a picture of booze. But again it's the arrangement of colour and glass that's important, not the contents! This picture would even look good framed behind brother Randy's bar! To the right you see Lori and Francesca on the beach in front of the Paradise. We met Francesca and her boyfriend and became friends. They are from Brazil and want us to visit! Guess where we are going next year? |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Did I say there were lots of good restaurants in Caulker? Habaneros was one of the best! Never had better seafood. I also loved the stained glass window and had to get an image of it. The fishing tour shop picture (right) was interesting because of the mother and child. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
On our fifth day in Caye Caulker we decided to make a day trip to Caye Chapel, which is an island devoted to a great golf course. Even Tiger Woods has flown here to play! We went by water taxi for a few bucks. It was only 10 minutes away. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Marshals hold up their hands for quiet as Goodwin prepares for his fairway drive. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Great form Lori ... but where is the ball? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
You didn't think just because this is a posting of our exploration of a new country that we wouldn't include golf! No way! Caye Chapel was a great deal at $150 each which included clubs, cart and as much golf as you could get in a day. Mouse over the picture of (left) and you'll see by reading the sign that this course had some unique hazards. No going into the reeds to look for an errant ball! There was also water hazards on every hole. Another picture of me at a bar. One would think I had an affinity for such places. This one was at the clubhouse at Caye Chapel where we had lunch. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
One week to go and we left Caye Caulker to visit the largest of the Belizean islands; Ambergris Caye. This is a favorite destination for many visiting Belize. Forty-five miles of sandy beach and palm trees. Lots of resorts, beach bars and restaurants. We again took the advice of our taxi driver, in a car this time, and after checking out a few different places settled in at the Coconuts Hotel in San Pedro, the only town on the island. If you look at the map you'll see that Ambergris Caye isn't really an island, but part of the Yucatan Peninsula hanging down from Mexico. It's only separated by a canal built by the ancient Mayans which now forms the border between Belize and Mexico. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The water taxi terminal in San Pedro |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Lori with her camera on the dock in front of the Coconuts Hotel |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Coconuts Hotel turned out to be a great place to stay. The beach was right out in front of the bar. It also had a huge swimming pool. Every night there was different entertainment and the first night we met lots of the locals, many of whom were ex pats like ourselves. We found that many of these people came to visit and stayed. Lori had to shoot Marilyn in the lobby of the Coconuts. Just behind her was the pool. Our room was again on the upper floor overlooking the beach. At right is an image of a dive shop out on a pier. There are many of these buildings over the water along the beach. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Dive Shop in San Pedro |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Marilyn Monroe |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The beach in front of Coconuts. The guy standing out there is fishing right where it gets deeper. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
This sailboat picture could be a post card advertising Belize as a destination. The line of white on the horizon is the surf over the barrier reef. Many of the pictures you'll see in the rest of this posting about Belize depict the tropical paradise that is Ambergris Caye. Some, like the one at right, have been played with in Photoshop. Mouse over to see the original. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Creole woman with child on their way home |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Some of these images were taken because of their splash of colours, like the sailboat (which was for rent). Then there are colourful characters like the fellow in the hammock. Ambergris Caye has two roads, one down the middle and the other the beach itself. Of course, in San Pedro, there are more and all paved in cobblestone. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
On our third day on Ambergris we rented bikes and peddled our way up the coast to see how far this beautiful Island went. After about 4 hours we were exhausted and we hadn't gone even half way. All along the beach were docks leading out to the deeper water. The most common transportation is by boat, which stop off at the various docks. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
That bike up ahead is me! |
Lori takes a rest after hours on the bike |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Out of the huge pile of Lori's rejects, I recovered the picture at left. She didn't like it because the background was "blown out", but I think it conveys the brightness and heat of the day and the sanctuary of a cool beach bar and tall cold rum and pineapple. We both drank the local rum as it was inexpensive and plentiful. At right is another picture of the beach that just went on and on. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cooling off and taking a break after hours of biking the beach | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Down town San Pedro. Cars and golf carts and brick streets. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Belizean kids catch their dinner. They caught about six good sized fish right off the dock while we had our lunch. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Crazy Canucks Bar They say that people make the place and it proved to be right on at the Crazy Canucks Bar which was located just down the beach from where we stayed. Most days we ended up here to be with our new friends. Pictured from left to right are the Pirate, Don and Peter. There was always something happening during the day and at night there was great entertainment. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Crazy Canucks Bar |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
We also met Dianne Lawrence who hails from Port Moody (my old home town) who has a Phd in Economics and left the hustle and bustle of Canadian life for the the slower, more relaxed lifestyle of Belizean Island living. Instead of an acting Professor of Economics she now owns and runs "Quicksilver Bicycle Messaging Service" in San Pedro. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Lori and her pal Peter Four |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
At left a couple of fishing boats in the sunset. As with most costal towns, fishing is a mainstay of life for many locals. Mouse over to enlarge and click to see full page. At right is a local woman trudging home after a day of work selling her Creole blankets. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Always in photography, light is very important. Too much and the colours are faded or blown out. Early morning or late afternoon just before sunset present the best conditions. At right is an example of how vivid the colours are at sunset. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
On our way home along the beach each evening we passed these fishermen cleaning their catch of the day, flipping the cut off pieces into the air for the Frigate birds. Whatever they didn't catch in mid air was gobbled up by the Pelicans. Notice under the pier all the Conch shells. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Belizean girl on dock |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Pelicans are always a great bird to watch and become quite friendly in their quest for dinner. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
So that is all for this posting. I hope you enjoyed the imagery of Belize and have an idea what its like to visit there. It would even be a great place to retire! If anyone plans on going, give us a call or email first for advice. Overall we found the people, although poor, to be very friendly. The country is great. The Cayes incredible. We will leave you with a final image of the beach on Ambergris Caye. This resort had a few places for sale in it. We are tempted. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I went out to check the catch of the day and try my luck at taking a picture. After all, I've been lugging the other camera all day! | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||