Life is a Beach
Thoughts on life and living in Bermuda

Friday, November 04, 2005

Hello… We are still here!
It has been a while since we posted to this blog, but we moved you see. We now have a home (finally) in a beautiful part of the islands called Southampton. Actually the address is # 63 South Road, Southampton Parish, Bermuda. SN02 (Just in case anyone wishes to send us a Christmas card). Our new place came totally empty so it has been a mad scramble to purchase a bed and basic needs to get us started. A difficult process when owning only a scooter to get around.

Of course part of the relocation process is finding an Internet Provider. We have agreed to share a connection to the Internet with our landlady and thus save on the monthly bill. Her tech guy should have us up and running by this weekend. I’m posting this entry through the computer here at work.

More about our new home. Lori had two wishes for the “perfect” abode; a gourmet kitchen and a “Standard Poodle”. I laughed out loud of course. Never in my wildest dreams did I think she would find both! Our apartment has what must be the largest wooden deck in Bermuda, a covered patio complete with overhead fans, a large bedroom and a kitchen / living room area all with hardwood flooring.

There is also a laundry room complete with washer and dryer and a bathroom accessible from both the bedroom and the foyer. It is all pretty empty now but we are on the lookout for a couch with a hide-a-bed for guests, a television and desk for the computer. We must also purchase a car, as the ride to work is a bit “treacherous” this time of the year. South Road follows the coast and the winds can gust up to 50 miles per hour and the rain is at times torrential. As a matter of fact, a “tornado” touched down on land a few miles up the coast from us yesterday and removed a few roofs. Just another tropical front passing through. See the newspaper article to the left and "read all about it!" ( Double click on the article and it should enlarge big enough to read) We were on our scooter at the time and the gusts of wind almost blew us off the road!

The next day was sunny and warm. The day after that we went fishing and for a swimming. That's weather in Bermuda.

Our location is also great in the fact that we are right across the road from the Wyndham Hotel and it’s beautiful beach to which we have rights to because of where we live. It’s got changing rooms, washrooms, thatched umbrellas and lounge chairs. The shore is protected by a reef that begs to be explored with a mask and snorkel. Down the road is the Southampton Princess Hotel and its golf course. Just over Lighthouse Hill is Mark’s boat moorage and the Henry Eighth Pub Restaurant and wine store is only staggering distance from our drive!

Friday, October 14, 2005

IMAGERY

Lori at the entrance to Shelly Bay at sunset

Being in Bermuda is a constant assault on the eyes. The beauty is mind blowing. Quite often we will spend a day to go and explore an area where we haven't been before. Of course we bring Lori's camera. This posting is to display only a few of Lori's pictures and to show a glimpse of different parts of the Island.

Ross on Tucker's Town Beach

It is only a 10 to 15 minute ride from the North side to the South shore, so of course, one comes across astonishing vistas of coast line around every other corner is seems. We'll be blasting along on our scooter and rounding a bend, come across an astounding view of incredibly blue water crashing upon the coral shoreline. "STOP!" Another picture to take!

Exploring a nameless Cove

You would think that a country with more people per square mile than most would have crowded beaches. This is simply not the case. We've found many "undiscovered" little coves and bays that are empty of people, even on the weekend. Of course we are into the cold months of winter soon and the Bermudians find the beach and ocean far too cold. Lori and I went swimming yesterday in 82 degree water that was crystal clear and beautifully refreshing.

Mouth of a Cavern at Clarence Cove

Most of Bermuda's Island formation is limestone. Most of the construction of it's buildings are of Bermudian "Blocks" carved out of limestone. Along the coast the wave action has eroded many caverns into this formation and in some instances these caves actually transverse the island underground (Or so I've been told). We do plan on going on a few scuba adventures to check this out.

Canon Fodder at Alexandra's Battery in St. Georges Parish

There is lots of history here as buildings date back to the 1600s. Cruise ships make this a port of call and stay for days. They dock at Hamilton, St.Georges and at The Royal Naval Dockyard. The islands of Bermuda all have historic "Forts" with remnants of canon and armouries.

This "blog" has it's limitations in many respects. One of them is it's inability to properly display images. We plan in the future to have a "photo gallery" set up on line.

Friday, October 07, 2005

Visiting Bermuda
There are those who express an interest in coming to Bermuda for a visit. Of course we want them to stay with us and in that way cut the expense of the trip in half. I thought I should post an article on what the "visitor" should expect when not staying at a resort hotel. As a matter of fact, there are no "all inclusive' hotels in Bermuda. If you like golf and have plenty of money to spend, you'll love the challanging courses of Bermuda. The cost of 18 rounds can be high as $280. Then there is a little 9 hole club near us (Ocean View) that we can play for $38 after 2 pm. We haven't sampled the night life as of yet, mainly because we haven't found it. Last night we went to the "Princess Hotel" for Happy Hour (a Friday night tradition in Hamilton ) where mostly expats stood around in their finest shorts and knee-socks guzzling booze under the stars. Lori and I kicked up our heels a bit in an effort at getting the party going but then it could have been the Gin.
Tobacco Bay
We "have" checked out most of the beaches to find one that we think will fit the bill when showing visitors a good time. Although the beaches in Bermuda are spectacular, there are not much in the way of amenities when spending the day there. So one brings their own cooler with eats and drinks and beach chairs, etc. Only problem is that it's a trifle difficult on a small scooter supporting two people. (Although you would be amazed at what we've brought home on the scooter from Tynes Bay where I work .... but that is another story.) We are actively looking for a small car and soon these transportation problems will be solved. We will also be able to pick visitors up at the airport and continue the tradition of getting them swizzled at the Swizzle Inn upon arrival.
We "did" find one beach that will fill the expectations of visitors like my brother Randy who likes some action on the beach. It's called "Tobacco Bay" and is a small beach with great snorkling, picturesque with nearby historical forts to explore. It has a beach bar, music and a restaurant nearby. Located at the East end of the the Islands near St Georges, it's only about a 20 minute drive from Hamilton.
The restaurant down the road is called Blackbeards and has it's own beach which is also very nice. Right beside Blackbeards is the historical Fort St. Catherines. On top of the hill behind all of this, surrounded by the St. Georges Golf Course, looms what Lori dubbed the "Overlook Hotel" from Steven King's famous story "The Shining". This huge abandoned hotel sits empty and crumbling, deserted years ago by it's owners Club Med when the Bermudian Government refused to allow them to have a "topless beach".

The "Overlook Hotel"

Wednesday, September 28, 2005

 

Bermuda Highways
This posting has to tell the story of Bermuda's highways and byways, the roads that connect one portion of one island to another. These roads are often narrow, always twisty and hilly. More the norm than the exception, these roads are carved through limestone giving them solid "walls" on either side. The one lane highways are divided with a single line; yellow meaning not to pass as it is on a blind corner and you would have to be suicidal to cross it, or white meaning you can pass, park, have a picnic or whatever, right there in the middle of the road. There are no sidewalks on these roads, as Lori would tell you after attempting to walk to town and barely escaping with her life. There are very few signal lights and those few in down town Hamilton.
So you can understand it when I say that the universal speed limit for all Bermuda is 35 Kilometres per hour maximum. You can also understand the Government of Bermuda restricting the size of automobiles. It wasn't until the last decade that this country even allowed cars! Most people ride scooters. Any tourist over 14 visiting the Islands can rent a scooter under 50cc. There are "no" car rentals. Those who "live" in Bermuda must take a test and pay registration, testing, insurance and licence fees in order to drive. For cars, the bigger it is, the more it will cost you, and this amounts to hundreds of dollars per year.
We expatriates from BC stifle our laughter when we see the "Bermudian bike gangs" with their Harley type Hogs which by law have their cylinders sleeved down to 150 cc. But the laughter is cut short when we actually experience what it is like to drive on the roads here. Other than a helmet, no protective gear is worn. It's sandals, shorts and T-shirt. Very often it's a mini skirt and stiletto high heals for the girls! The speed limit of 35 klicks an hour is a joke! Everyone seems to travel at least 55 k's/hr and often much faster than that. It's not the speed that is astonishing but the fact that everyone on the road thinks they are invincible! Go for a half hour ride and you'll experience at least one or two very near calamities involving yourself. It doesn't matter how defensive you drive. Many of the scooter drivers are Kamikaze Pilots! Part of the reason is the road regulations, which allow passing on the right or the left. It is very common to see scooter riders take their life in their hands and pass on totally blind corners. It is also common to have someone "stop" in front of you, on a major road, to pick someone up or shoot the breeze with a passer by! Try driving the speed limit and you'll have vehicles, including cars, passing you on the right and the left.
Yes, the commute here is a trifle hair-raising. To start with, everyone drives on the wrong side of the road. When there "is" a traffic light, the sequence is Red (stop) then Yellow (rev your engines) and then Green (peddle to the metal and pass anyone who lags!) It is not uncommon to see young Bermudians on their scooters, riding sidesaddle, passing cars on the centre line with a cell phone jammed up inside their helmet. The whole thing is to be "cool", even if it costs your life. And it does. Not a day goes by without hearing about someone getting creamed! One of the first questions asked upon arriving here is; "Have you got your Bermudian Tattoo yet?" Of course this refers to skidding down the asphalt in your shorts. It is inevitable. Sooner or later it will happen. I'm constantly astonished and alarmed when waiting for a chance to turn, on having a suicide rider brush by me at 60 with no idea what is ahead. Often these are the miniskirted girls in high heals!
Only one car per dwelling is allowed here. Each home is issued an "assessment number". Therefore, most everyone rides a scooter. No point in taking a car to downtown Hamilton anyways as there is no parking. We bought a Yamaha 115 cc scooter. We are trying to be careful but I'm afraid that the inevitable may happen. Some of the side streets we have to navigate are almost perpendicular and often very wet with ten foot high walls of limestone and no shoulders. It's a very different commute than the lower mainland of Vancouver, BC. It is also very beautiful with brilliant skies and lush tropical vegitation often converging above the road. We are now into October and still zoom about on our small scooter in a T-shirt, although Lori has yet to try her driving skills wearing high heals.

Friday, September 23, 2005

GONE FISHING

So what does one do when living on a small Island in the middle of an ocean? Find a boat and "Go Fishing!" We've lucked out in that our friends Mark and Anne bought a 25 foot boat! Our first day on the water was spent circling the Island and checking out the beaches, atolls, bays and harbours. Of course we got lots of sun and swam several times as well as drank a cooler worth of wine and beer. The next day we went snorkling for "lobster", which entails diving about 10 feet down to look under ledges of coral with a "noose on a stick" lobster catcher. Pictured above, Lori returns as empty handed as we all did. You have to know where to look, we found out later.

This area of the world abounds with fish. Put on a mask and take a look. Throw in a "hand line" with a hook and some bait and you'll have dinner within a few minutes. As a matter of fact, most of the Bermudians fish with a hand line only.

If you want to catch the "big" ones, you have to go offshore, beyond the reef, about 9 miles, where one trolls (often with outriggers) at 15 knots. This is where you can catch the Tuna, Marlin or Wahoo! Pictured at left is Mark with a 50lb Wahoo he caught last week. This week we fished "within" the reef as the rollers were a bit too high. We caught about 35 "Silky Snappers" and 2 Turbots and had a meal of snapper that evening, which I cooked and Lori said tasted fabulous.

There is no requirement for a fishing license and no limit on how many fish you can keep...except for lobster. A lobster license is $115 and for this you have access to 2 lobsters per day, providing you can find and capture them. No easy task as no tanks are allowed. Just free diving. Hold your breath!

Of course, the best thing about fishing is spending time in a boat with friends, with clear blue skies and the sun beating down on your shoulders.

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

John Smith Beach

I read a posting to my last blog on "hurricanes" from sister Jude in Squamish, BC, stating; "Hmmm, that's odd. Nothing but bright blue sky, brilliant crisp mountain air, a peaceful hammock and gentle breezes up this way." So I thought it is time to do a blog on another Bermudian beach. Jude's comment may also be in retribution for my earlier statement that the weather here is is better than watching rain out the window for days. We are still getting used to the varying and sometimes dramatic weather changes here. I suppose it's because there are no mountains to "hold" the clouds or continents to change the weather patterns, so we are at the mercy of whatever comes our way for a short time... after which it blows over and it's back to the beach under sunny skies. One can wake up to torrential downpour and by the time you have your morning coffee and are ready to go out, the sky is clear and the sun is blazing hot. Even when it's raining, the temperature is in the high 80s, so if you get wet, no big deal, it'll dry out soon. I wear sandals, t-shirts and bathing-suit or shorts always. Only once have I had to wear raingear so far.

John Smith Beach is on the South side of the Island and the closest to our residence; about 4 minutes away. It is where we go for a quick swim and to cool off at the end of a day. The water is refreshing in that it's cooler than the water on the North side of the Island by a few degrees. It is quite common to stand chest deep in the ocean with friends, drinking an ice cold Heineken. The sand is the famous "pink" colour and very fine in texture. The ocean is a clear aqua blue with enough surf to make it fun. The reef is out about 150 feet offshore, in easy reach for snorkeling fun and abounding with sealife, as well as being littered with many shipwrecks. One has only to be aware of the strength of the sun and use proper sunscreen, especially if one is follically challenged. (If you are wondering where my chin hair went, I had to shave it off for the SCBA training ... it's growing back now).

John Smith Beach ~ Bermuda

Saturday, September 10, 2005

HURRICANE

Hurricane Fabian

We had everyone back home worried about "Hurricane Nate" which was to make a direct hit on our small Island. Turns out it passed 107 miles to the South and the headlines here state that we had a "narrow Escape". The winds only gusted to 50 mph, which was enough to "wobble" the scooter and give me a fright on the way to work last Thursday morning. Coming home in a torrential downpour the next day was even hairier when I had to navigate the 50cc machine through sudden lakes that appeared on the road and oncoming traffic completely submerged me for a second or two. Luckily, I just got issued rain gear from work and I kept reasonably dry. We had also just purchased new "Full face" helmets which served more like a diving bell that day.
Hearing stories of destruction and loss of life from hurricane Fabian in 2001; I don't dismiss worry by the natives in Bermuda of potential storms headed our way. Although most of the destruction from these storms is concentrated in the Mexican Gulf and do not have a direct impact on Bermuda, it's a fact that we are in "Hurricane Season" now and it is also a fact that we are a very tiny island in the middle of the North Atlantic with the highest landmass at 30 meters above sea-level. It's all a bit intimidating to new-comers from mountainous British Columbia.

Tuesday, August 30, 2005

Fire Fighting Training

The four days with the Bermudian Firefighters is an experience worth a complete and separate "Blog" entry. Parts of the training were some of the most rigorous I've ever undertaken. After a day of theory we hit the boot camp training facilities including a 5 floor tower complete with a basement where a real fire was set alight and flooded the miniature high-rise with intense heat and smoke. After running up and down stairs, fully suited up in fire gear, gloves, helmet and the 24 lb SCBA set, carrying full 5 gal pails in each hand and arriving at the point of exhaustion, we were led into the black smoke of the third floor and the "cages". We gaspingly entered this maze from hell on all fours, blind and totally dependent on our BA sets. The maze included holes to drop down and others to climb up into. To jack up the excitement a notch, our sets 25% whistles started to blow only half way through this nightmare and panic began its insidious takeover of our sanity.
The rest of the four days included hose drills, casualty recovery, HAZMAT training and heat exposure limitations. The last day included a casualty recovery drill at the Tynes Bay Waste Treatment facility whereby we were required to enter the seven levels from below and we were to enter blind! (The Lieutenant covered our faceplates with plastic) Thus, I received my first tour of my new place of employment, being dragged along by a young Bermudian, tripping over my own feet.
The image shows me dragging my body off the killing fields of Bermuda's fire training facility at the end of a day.


Bermuda
So we arrived on August 21 at noon. After months of confusion, misinformation and waiting, we had finally arrived. No place to stay but at least we were here ... on the Island in the middle of the Sargaso Sea in the Norh Atlantic. Our friends Mark and Anne Slater were waiting for us outside the airport as we emerged after a couple of hours of red tape. After loading our bags into two cars we were off to the "Swizzle Inn" to initiate a Bermudian tradition, that is, to get "swizzled", which involves drinking a concoction of rum and various jucies all of which went down very easily with imediate results. That night and the next day we lived with the Slaters and on the following day moved into our temporary digs at the home of Colvin Manning; a one bedroom suite in Hamilton Parish near Shelly Beach. Colvin is a Bermudian and the Electrical Supervisor at the Tynes Bay Facility where I am to start on September 1st, but all thoughts of acclimatizing myself to the 90 % humidity and 90 degree heat (32 celsius) were in vain as after only one day on the tropical island, I was scheduled to join some of my fellow engineers and train at the main Hamilton Fire Hall in the use of SCBA, or "Self Contained Breathing Apparatus"

Thursday, July 21, 2005

"Life is a Beach"

When we say (or at least "I" say) that "Life is a Beach", I mean that to survive the hardships imposed upon us by ourselves and others, we must become one with nature and recharge our run-down batteries from time to time, and there is no better place on earth to do this than at the beach.... on a sunny day, with the smell of rotting seaweed and dead crabs, the feel of hot sand between the toes and the sound of seagulls and the serf. I don't know why exactly the seaside is so healing, just that it is! Often when I'm stressed, memories of the beach intrude upon my thoughts as if a balm to my troubles. When the harsh endless days of winter crush our souls, yearnings of the beach and sun pull us through... the knowledge that it is waiting, just around the corner of spring. Perhaps it is because the ocean is the cradle of life, out of which we crawled, and we recognize an old friend... a homecoming. Maybe it is because the ocean can so easily hypnotize us with meditative undulations of water on rocks, cradling our minds into a healing semi-unconsciousness. All I know is that it is necessary for life, and therefore, "Life is a Beach". This is my first attempt at posting a Web Log and seeing as I named my space on blogger.com "Life is a Beach", I thought I would share my thoughts on the title. I bet you thought that I meant that I had the hedonistic view that life is all about having fun, drinking beer, watching bikini clad young girls dancing in the serf and partying. Well, I do enjoy that view as well but it is not what the title means. The image above is of South Beach in Point Roberts and the jut of land in the background is Lilly Point. "Where" do you say? Yes I know that the theme of this blog is "Life in Bermuda" but you see I haven't quite arrived yet and so my beach experiences as of late occur on the beach in front of my cottage. Hopefully the next posting will be from the magical island kingdom of Bermuda.